‘La Cocina’ Shows the Ugly Side of Restaurant Kitchens
EATER
OCTOBER 25, 2024
Forced to enter quite literally through the back-alley door, Estela serves as guide into this bustling world of hierarchical division — front of house versus back of house, worker versus manager, American versus foreign-born. In La Cocina, cooking is not art, but a livelihood — a means to an end.
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