A Steakhouse Divided
EATER
SEPTEMBER 29, 2023
In the decades that have followed, places like Alloy (decorative cherry blossoms, pink walls), Model Milk (airy, multilevel dining areas), and Sukiyaki House (sushi counter displaying seafood flown in from Japan) — which offer experiences devoid of steak and ornate dark wood — have continued to change what diners expect of fine dining.
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