A Steakhouse Divided
EATER
SEPTEMBER 29, 2023
Though Hawai‘i does have its own long history of cattle ranching culture — influenced more by Mexican vaqueros than by the American West — by the 1970s, Honolulu was a leisure-focused town, where the cliched idea of a laid-back, tropical paradise inspired tourist-facing businesses. Growing up, you could just walk in without a reservation.
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