Orange Is the New Yolk
EATER
AUGUST 17, 2023
By the late aughts, the egg had been been given a bespoke agrarian rebranding: In 2008, Frank Bruni lamented the redundancy of a “hen egg” on the menu at Momofuku Ko; the following year, Eleven Madison Park was serving a poached “farm egg with Parmesan foam,” topped also with brown butter hollandaise and asparagus.
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