OPINIONOperations

When reports of a restaurant-Mafia connection were more than rumors

Restaurant Rewind: A once-celebrated New York City chef confirmed the rumors when he revealed his double life as a mob wise guy. Here's his story.

As any fan of "The Sopranos" knows, mobsters love good food almost as much as they relish ill-gotten money. No wonder organized crime is constantly rumored to be intertwined with the restaurant business.

For veterans of New York City, those insinuations are far from fanciful. Long-timers know the dining landmarks where Mafioso kingpins were whacked after a meal, and where you have to be careful not to kick fellow guests in the ankle lest you set off their back-up guns. A line of black limos outside means you don’t tell Italian jokes while waiting for a table, and the men’s dress code might include a pinky ring. 

If there were any doubts of a connection between cooks and capos, they were dashed a few years ago when once-celebrated chef David Ruggerio came clean on his involvement with the mob. While earning stellar reviews for his fare at New York’s La Caravelle, the second cousin to famed gangster Carlo Gambino pursued a second life as a goodfella, hijacking trucks, shaking down other crooks and dealing drugs.

He eventually left the business to avoid jail time, and decided to air his criminal past after several partners in crime were killed and he was disrespected by a godfather of sorts.

It’s an incredible story, and you can learn it by hitting Play on this week’s episode of Restaurant Rewind, the podcast that looks back at often-forgotten nuggets from the industry’s past.  Listen this week for a snapshot of how a real wise guy made it in the business.

Members help make our journalism possible. Become a Restaurant Business member today and unlock exclusive benefits, including unlimited access to all of our content. Sign up here.

Multimedia

Exclusive Content

Financing

Is the takeout revolution over?

The Bottom Line: Starbucks and McDonald’s are struggling while full-service restaurants like Chili’s and Olive Garden are thriving. Consumers may be rediscovering their love of hospitality.

Financing

Buoyed by a recovering Steak n Shake, Biglari goes back on the restaurant hunt

The Bottom Line: Biglari Holdings’ share price has improved over the past couple of years, and now its chairman is eyeing both Jack in the Box and El Pollo Loco. But there are lessons for other restaurant executives.

Beverage

Condado Tacos overhauls its margarita lineup and drink sales spike by 20%

Behind the Menu: Wild new flavors and upgraded ingredients give the fast casual’s bar program a boost—and customers are noticing.

Trending

More from our partners