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From above, a bowl of garlic shrimp over rice, staged with ingredients nearby.
Garlic shrimp bowl.
Tin Roof

The 21 Essential Maui Restaurants

Maui’s best poke in the back of a low-key grocery store, decadent roast pork at a dim sum drive-in, salted caramel shave ice at a creative dessert shop, and more of the island’s best meals

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Garlic shrimp bowl.
| Tin Roof

Maui’s reputation for beauty is deserved: Strings of perfect crescent beaches give way to lush rainforests and rolling green ranchlands. Opulent resorts line the island’s leeward shore, each with a flashy restaurant offering front row seats for the nightly pyrotechnic sunset. But increasingly, the island’s best chefs have migrated away from big hotels to humbler kitchens. High rents have forced independent restaurateurs to maximize unconventional spaces, so many of the most righteous meals on Maui can now be found in plain-faced strip malls, food trucks, and farms.

This is especially true after the catastrophic August 2023 fire in Lahaina, which disproportionately affected the island’s restaurant industry. Overnight, chefs and waitstaff turned into emergency responders. Many lost their homes and businesses and have yet to find stable replacements. While some West Maui restaurants have reopened, like Leoda’s and Fond, others still hope to rebuild or are simply gone. Despite these considerable challenges, Maui’s sous chefs and shave ice makers continue to show up, tie on aprons, and nourish their community.

Nourishment is needed now more than ever, and if the fire prompted any change, it’s a deeper commitment to “eat local.” The trend, which predated the disaster, continues to blossom, resulting in dynamic collaborations between chefs, fishermen, and farmers. Menus routinely feature Hawaiian flavors such as ‘ōpakapaka (pink snapper), pohole fern, līmu līpoa (Hawaiian seaweed), and haupia (coconut custard). At Tikehau Lounge and Esters Fair Prospect, bartenders mix cocktails with local spirits and fruits. Farmers markets and grocery stores offer a plethora of Maui-grown products — macadamia nut butter, chocolate, and coffee — that you can pack in your suitcase to savor back home. Many local food purveyors donate a percentage of their profit to Lahaina relief agencies, so indulging serves a double purpose.

Shannon Wianecki writes about food, culture, and native ecosystems for publications including BBC, Smithsonian, and Hana Hou — the Hawaiian Airlines magazine. Growing up in Hawai’i, her favorite snack was raw opihi (limpet) fresh off the rocks.

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Owners Jojo and Eliza Vasquez pour their hearts into this laid-back eatery tucked away in a Napili strip mall. Pop in after a morning snorkel for bentos, burgers, or fried chicken bites. For dinner, it’s worth the drive to Maui’s upper West Side to sit at the bar, sip a hibiscus paloma, and watch chef Jojo put the last meticulous touches on his nightly special. After the Lahaina fire, he paused his exquisite prix fixe dinners, though that just means he has extra time to spend scooping delicate roe onto poached salmon filets and braising short ribs to perfection.

Takeout containers on a wood table, including a large bucket of fried chicken, a small cake, a vegetable rice dish, and steamed veggies
Fond family chicken bucket
Fond [Facebook]

Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop

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Blink and you’ll miss this eatery at the midway point of the seaside Honoapi‘ilani Highway. The kitchen puts extra consideration into American standards: Reuben sandwiches with house-made sauerkraut, hot dogs with poha berry mustard and pineapple chutney, and crisp salads topped with charred Brussels sprouts. But it’s the individual pies — flaky of crust and generous of filling — that make Leoda’s worth pulling off the road. It’s hard to pick a favorite among the flavors that evoke the island: coconut cream, chocolate macadamia nut, and Olowalu lime.

Olowalu Lime Pie at Leoda’s Pie House
Photo: Leoda’s Pie House / Facebook

Ichiban Okazuya

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One of Maui’s few remaining mom-and-pop shops, Ichiban Okazuya didn’t just survive the lean pandemic years; it expanded. The plantation-era menu, which was perfect, remains unchanged, but the beloved local lunch spot now stays open until sunset, and customers can order from a takeout window instead of squishing in like sardines to the one-room kitchen. Plate lunches come with your choice of entree, side dish, and a scoop of rice. The chicken katsu might be Maui’s best, and the sauteed opakapaka (snapper) could sell for three times the price in a resort setting. Nourishing sides — nishime, wakame salad, and chow fun noodles — are even better topped with a few tempura shrimp.

Esters Fair Prospect

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Two friends launched this tiny tiki bar far off the tourist path in Wailuku. After a stroll around town to see the truly exceptional street murals, take a seat on the patio and sip on a tropical libation served in a ceramic mermaid cup. The Surf and Go Naked is a liquid slingshot of gin, liliko‘i juice, and IPA caramel, while Mercury in Retrograde mixes mezcal with absinthe and a pineapple-coconut shrub. Hit up happy hour, when the barkeeps pour classic daiquiris for $8. Tasty bar snacks include fresh guacamole and charcuterie with prosciutto, triple cream, and pineapple jam. 

A ribbed glass with a cocktail over crushed ice, with a bright flower for garnish, sitting on a serving tray decorated with spindly branches, in front of wood slats blurred in the background
Mai tai at Esters Fair Prospect
Esters Fair Prospect [Facebook]

Shikeda Bento Patisserie

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Chefs Shin Kim and Sean Ikeda blended their names to create “Shikeda,” a Japanese patisserie that sells out of its delectable sweets and bentos by mid-afternoon each day. Get there at opening time, 11 a.m. sharp, for the best selection of miso pork belly and unagi lunch boxes packed with ume-dusted rice and pickled seaweed. Or skip straight to the dessert case, which resembles a Bergdorf Goodman jewelry counter. The Totoro-shaped choux au craquelin are almost too adorable to devour, and the pavlova are delicate ballerina skirts made of meringue. And then there are the roulades, light and airy roll cakes of every flavor: banana, matcha, Kula lavender, and holiday specials such as candy cane and cocoa. The chefs can’t quit experimenting, which is both wonderful and excruciating for fans who develop favorites.

A cream puff shaped like the character Totoro with edible eyes and ears, “holding” a cocktail umbrella over a figurine.
Cream puff shaped like Totoro.
Shikeda Bento Patisserie

Broth at Alive and Well

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Inside a small health food store, the chefs at Broth ladle out wonderful bowls of ramen loaded with enoki mushrooms, broccolini, and char siu pork dyed pink with beet rather than typical food coloring. The ramen, along with banh mi and green bowls, is served until 5 p.m., but if you arrive before noon you can order avocado toast with lox, miso tahini, or curried chicken. The kitchen spotlights vegetables grown on nearby farms and happily accommodates paleo and vegan substitutions. The drink menu deserves careful consideration: It’s tough to decide between the matcha smoothie, fresh-pressed dragon fruit lemonade, and indulgent bulletproof nitro coffee fortified with coconut cream, almond butter, cacao nibs, and a coconut-based supplement called Brain Octane.

A bowl of brightly colored ramen in broth, with grilled kimchi, seaweed, soft boiled egg, and other fixins
Kalbi kimchi ramen
Alive and Well [Facebook]

Kitoko Maui

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French-trained pastry chef Cole Hinueber left Spago to open this miniature five-star restaurant on wheels, currently parked at South Maui Gardens in Kīhei. In a monogrammed chef’s coat, Hinueber serves the fanciest loco moco in the islands: your choice of braised Maui beef, local venison, or lobster with crispy sushi rice, green papaya salad, and tamarind sauce topped with a fried egg. Don’t skip dessert: Rich cacao sorbet comes in a hollowed-out cacao pod. It’s best paired with the financier topped with liliko‘i sauce, toasted meringue teardrops, and Thai basil from the chef’s garden.

Tin Roof

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Lines have snaked out the door of this daytime noodle shop ever since Top Chef alum Sheldon Simeon and his wife, Janice, opened it in spring 2016. They serve customizable bowls with a base of white rice, brown rice, or garlic noodles (the clear winner), crowned with fried chicken thighs, garlic shrimp, poke, or pork belly. The spicy fried chicken sandwich may be the island’s tastiest bargain. Check the board by the register (or Tin Roof’s Instagram) for daily specials, which frequently reflect Simeon’s Filipino heritage, like sarciado, a fish dish that includes egg and tomato. The restaurant is takeout only; take your goodies over to the picnic benches at nearby Kanaha Beach.

From above, a bowl of garlic shrimp over rice, staged with ingredients nearby.
Garlic shrimp bowl.
Tin Roof

Akamai Coffee

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Akamai (which means “smart” or “clever” in Hawaiian) offers 100 percent Maui-grown and roasted coffee, including the award-winning Maui Mokka varietal. You can taste the quality in the cup, and the baristas know their business. In addition to perfectly foamy cappuccinos and lattes with decorative art, they offer New Orleans-style cold brew with chicory and seasonal espresso drinks spiked with macadamia nut and butterscotch. To nosh on, try the sophisticated avocado toast sprinkled with microgreens or the Belgian waffle with berry compote. Bags of whole roasted beans are pricey but worth it. Beyond the cafes, Akamai operates two drive-up windows, one in Kīhei and another in Kahului.

A latte filled to the brim of a coffee mug decorated with the cafe’s name in cursive script
Coffee at Akamai
Akamai Coffee [Facebook]

Spoon & Key

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On an island where decent sandwiches are hard to come by, Spoon & Key (a rebranding of the Market Wailea) comes to the rescue. The seared ‘ahi melt on a brioche bun features local fish, the Proper BLT layers crispy pork belly, wild greens, and tomato on sourdough, and the Green Eggs & Kale panini is a delicious mess of melted provolone and whole grain mustard. On Friday and Saturday nights husband-and-wife team Chris and Tarah Kulis host pop-up dinners, where the weekly menu might feature pickled octopus with shishito peppers or seared scallops with parsnip and breadfruit. Ample portions are served family-style, and if you’re feeling hedonistic, you can add caviar or dry-aged rib-eye to the feast. The outdoor tables have a view, but noise from the road makes the indoor seating a better choice.

Only Ono BBQ

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Every Saturday, Only Ono BBQ hosts a dim sum drive-in at the Heritage Hall in Pā‘ia. Just text in your order by Friday night, arrive at your chosen time slot, and pay via Venmo or cash in a sealed envelope, and your food is brought to your car. There isn’t a single dud on the menu, but standouts include the juicy siu mai, bolo bao, and what might be the crispiest, most decadent roast pork outside of China. Chef Keith Apana also knows barbecue inside out, so if there’s a Texas brisket special, nab it. And if you miss Saturday’s rendezvous, you’ll have a second chance the next day. Only Ono sells a pared-down menu, plus roast duck, at the Maui Sunday Market in Kahului. Either way, make sure to pre-order.

A takeout container packed with chopped roast pork with very crispy skin on top
Crispy roast pork from Only Ono.
Only Ono BBQ/Facebook

Mama's Fish House

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At first glance, Mama’s comes across as a tourist snare; the South Pacific motif borders on kitschy and entrees cost an eye-popping $80. But this Polynesian fantasy has legitimate appeal. Waitstaff dressed in vintage Aloha wear deliver warm bread and amuse-bouches as salt air wafts in from the private cove. The kitchen’s consistency, honed by Maui-born executive chef Perry Bateman, justifies its international reputation. Each fish is listed along with who caught it and where — which, in an era of overfishing and mystery filets, is worth the price alone. Start with seared local octopus or grilled Haleakalā beef served in half a papaya, before diving into the fragrant bouillabaisse with saffron-scented chunks of Tristan lobster and Kauai shrimp. Reservations fill up months in advance, so book as early as possible.

A platter of fish and various side dishes.
Traditional Hawaiian Platter at Mama’s Fish House.
Bill Addison

Chef Jeff Scheer is a purist. Every ingredient must be exact, from the hand-milled flour in the sourdough to the Lopes Farm beef Scheer buys whole and breaks down into meatballs, briskets, and loins. His one-room Upcountry pizza kitchen is a celebration of local ripeness; elevated pizza toppings include Kaua‘i prawns roasted in the wood oven, Kula zucchini lightly dressed in Parmesan cream, and braised pork with a dash of passionfruit butter. The fungi pie is a favorite, as is the duck confit with creamy cannellini beans and a hint of mustard. Bring friends so you can try each of the house-made gelatos: Kula strawberry, pistachio, cappuccino, and olive oil.

A margherita pizza held on a paddle in front of a pizza oven with a fire blazing inside.
Pizza fresh from the oven.
Marlow

Maui Bees

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On a few idyllic acres in Kula, Leah Damon and her crew keep bees, grow organic vegetables, and tend to sweet-tempered milk cows, goats, and chickens. The pick-your-own farm is a gourmet Eden, where visitors can feast on pumpkin soup and gluten-free brownies, and take away jars of macadamia blossom honey. On Friday nights, the farm hosts three-hour experiences that include tours of the “bee museum” followed by a seven-course dinner. The vegetable-forward menu spotlights farm-grown novelties like honeycomb, mulberries, Surinam cherry, and asparagus picked at the peak of ripeness.

The owners of Nuka turned an old Hā‘iku auto supply into a wonderfully modern izakaya and sushi bar. To start, order a few small plates like spicy edamame, miso eggplant, and kinpira gobo (slivered burdock and carrot dressed in sake). Then dive into a sashimi platter, including slices of ruby red tuna and translucent snapper supplied by the owners’ own fishing boat. Or for a simple, satiating meal, try a Nuka bowl: fresh herbs and veggies piled on rice and topped with ‘ahi katsu, blackened tofu, or shio koji salmon. Patience is necessary here; the restaurant doesn’t take reservations, and the wait is often long. 

A plate of several pairs of fish and shrimp nigiri, and a maki roll.
Nigiri at Nuka.
Nuka

Aunty Sandy's Banana Bread

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To make use of the island’s surplus of bananas, a cottage industry of stalls that sell banana bread thrive throughout Maui. On the road to Hāna (an extraordinarily beautiful drive that will melt the cynicism of even the most jaded traveler), Aunty Sandy’s sits at a jut in the road near Ke‘anae Point; happily, it’s the precise location in the winding drive where a snack seems especially appealing, so it’s little wonder the business has thrived for more than 30 years. Bakers pull fresh loaves from the oven throughout the day, so chances are high that your banana bread will still be warm. The stand also sells drinks and shave ice.

A loaf of banana bread with a slice cut off.
Banana bread.
Bill Addison

Balai Pata

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For two decades, chef Joey Macadangdang was the talent at Roy’s Ka‘anapali, earning his mentor award after award. Finally, he struck out on his own with not just one, but four restaurants. His latest, Balai Pata, is a full-throated serenade to his Filipino heritage. Start with fried rice studded with Kona abalone or steamed buns packed with tocino (pork belly bacon), atchara (pickled papaya), and banana ketchup. Then dive into the sigang featuring a whole fish in sour tamarind broth with okra, long beans, and eggplant. The halo-halo, served in a hollowed coconut, is a heavenly end to any meal, though it’s almost a meal on its own; the crushed ice is ladled with coconut cream and topped with fruit jellies, fresh coconut, avocado, and a scoop of ube ice cream.

Kaohu Store

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Follow the arrows through this humble grocery to the seafood counter where you’ll find the island’s best poke. The bright red ‘ahi, translucent hamachi, and tako (octopus) are so fresh they still taste like the sea. Order a sampling dressed sparingly with traditional Hawaiian seasonings: chile pepper and ‘inamona (roasted kukui nut and salt), ogo (the crunchy red seaweed often served in sushi restaurants), and līpoa (a much rarer seaweed with golden-brown leaves that taste like scotch). Pohole salad serves as the perfect accompaniment: Tender pohole ferns, with a texture similar to okra, are tossed with large chunks of tomato and onion.

Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice

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Roughly 16 years ago, David and Ululani Yamashiro made it their mission to perfect Hawai‘i’s favorite refreshment: shave ice. They succeeded, creating immaculate snowballs of ice shaved extra fine and doused with house-made syrups. Syrup specialist Emi Yoshida continues to concoct new flavors, so alongside standards like mango, cherry, and pineapple you might find Thai tea, jamaica, salted caramel, and strawberry milk. The team makes each small-batch syrup with all-natural local ingredients, except for a few throwbacks like electric blue raspberry. As you wait in line, choose your three flavors, add a base of ice cream or adzuki beans, then crown your creation with haupia cream, matcha mochi, or li hing mui drizzle. If the options overwhelm you, ask the staff for suggestions. Ululani’s lost two locations in the Lahaina fire, but you can still sate your sweet tooth at three other spots in South and Central Maui.

A cup of shave ice in various colors topped with green cubes of mochi.
Shave ice at Ululani’s.
Shannon Wianecki

Tikehau Lounge

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Unimpressive from the outside, this little lounge is decorated on the inside with lavishly hand-painted wallpaper and sea-urchin-shaped lanterns, the ideal backdrop for sophisticated libations. Let the bartender get you started with a frozen rum cannonball shot — a slushy mix of Plantation Pineapple rum, bitters, locally grown vanilla, liliko‘i, and lemon — served in a crystal pineapple goblet. Next move onto a classic Old Fashioned dressed up with hints of cacao or Kula persimmon. The zero-proof menu is just as cleverly conceived with fresh squeezed juices, dashes of bright blue spirulina, and milky sesame orgeat underpinning drinks in elegant stemware. Bar snacks range from small (candied macadamia nuts) to significant (lettuce cups loaded with Chamorro-style shrimp and fresh coconut).

A bright blue cocktail with a foamy top topped with a wavy garnish.
A striking cocktail at Tikehau.
Tikehau Lounge

The stylish sushi bar at the far end of the Wailea Gateway Center is named for its executive chef JR Oao (pronounced “wow”). The nigiri, paired with sea urchin and oyster shooters, is flawless, while the scallops in the baked California roll melt on your tongue. Reserve a table during happy hour (3 to 5 p.m. daily) for generously discounted small plates of rock shrimp tempura and salmon karaage. Big plates are worth the splurge, too. Juicy lamb chops rubbed with aji panca have just a hint of heat, stacked on a smear of miso. The ube pot de creme is an unexpected delight.

Fond

Owners Jojo and Eliza Vasquez pour their hearts into this laid-back eatery tucked away in a Napili strip mall. Pop in after a morning snorkel for bentos, burgers, or fried chicken bites. For dinner, it’s worth the drive to Maui’s upper West Side to sit at the bar, sip a hibiscus paloma, and watch chef Jojo put the last meticulous touches on his nightly special. After the Lahaina fire, he paused his exquisite prix fixe dinners, though that just means he has extra time to spend scooping delicate roe onto poached salmon filets and braising short ribs to perfection.

Takeout containers on a wood table, including a large bucket of fried chicken, a small cake, a vegetable rice dish, and steamed veggies
Fond family chicken bucket
Fond [Facebook]

Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop

Blink and you’ll miss this eatery at the midway point of the seaside Honoapi‘ilani Highway. The kitchen puts extra consideration into American standards: Reuben sandwiches with house-made sauerkraut, hot dogs with poha berry mustard and pineapple chutney, and crisp salads topped with charred Brussels sprouts. But it’s the individual pies — flaky of crust and generous of filling — that make Leoda’s worth pulling off the road. It’s hard to pick a favorite among the flavors that evoke the island: coconut cream, chocolate macadamia nut, and Olowalu lime.

Olowalu Lime Pie at Leoda’s Pie House
Photo: Leoda’s Pie House / Facebook

Ichiban Okazuya

One of Maui’s few remaining mom-and-pop shops, Ichiban Okazuya didn’t just survive the lean pandemic years; it expanded. The plantation-era menu, which was perfect, remains unchanged, but the beloved local lunch spot now stays open until sunset, and customers can order from a takeout window instead of squishing in like sardines to the one-room kitchen. Plate lunches come with your choice of entree, side dish, and a scoop of rice. The chicken katsu might be Maui’s best, and the sauteed opakapaka (snapper) could sell for three times the price in a resort setting. Nourishing sides — nishime, wakame salad, and chow fun noodles — are even better topped with a few tempura shrimp.

Esters Fair Prospect

Two friends launched this tiny tiki bar far off the tourist path in Wailuku. After a stroll around town to see the truly exceptional street murals, take a seat on the patio and sip on a tropical libation served in a ceramic mermaid cup. The Surf and Go Naked is a liquid slingshot of gin, liliko‘i juice, and IPA caramel, while Mercury in Retrograde mixes mezcal with absinthe and a pineapple-coconut shrub. Hit up happy hour, when the barkeeps pour classic daiquiris for $8. Tasty bar snacks include fresh guacamole and charcuterie with prosciutto, triple cream, and pineapple jam. 

A ribbed glass with a cocktail over crushed ice, with a bright flower for garnish, sitting on a serving tray decorated with spindly branches, in front of wood slats blurred in the background
Mai tai at Esters Fair Prospect
Esters Fair Prospect [Facebook]

Shikeda Bento Patisserie

Chefs Shin Kim and Sean Ikeda blended their names to create “Shikeda,” a Japanese patisserie that sells out of its delectable sweets and bentos by mid-afternoon each day. Get there at opening time, 11 a.m. sharp, for the best selection of miso pork belly and unagi lunch boxes packed with ume-dusted rice and pickled seaweed. Or skip straight to the dessert case, which resembles a Bergdorf Goodman jewelry counter. The Totoro-shaped choux au craquelin are almost too adorable to devour, and the pavlova are delicate ballerina skirts made of meringue. And then there are the roulades, light and airy roll cakes of every flavor: banana, matcha, Kula lavender, and holiday specials such as candy cane and cocoa. The chefs can’t quit experimenting, which is both wonderful and excruciating for fans who develop favorites.

A cream puff shaped like the character Totoro with edible eyes and ears, “holding” a cocktail umbrella over a figurine.
Cream puff shaped like Totoro.
Shikeda Bento Patisserie

Broth at Alive and Well

Inside a small health food store, the chefs at Broth ladle out wonderful bowls of ramen loaded with enoki mushrooms, broccolini, and char siu pork dyed pink with beet rather than typical food coloring. The ramen, along with banh mi and green bowls, is served until 5 p.m., but if you arrive before noon you can order avocado toast with lox, miso tahini, or curried chicken. The kitchen spotlights vegetables grown on nearby farms and happily accommodates paleo and vegan substitutions. The drink menu deserves careful consideration: It’s tough to decide between the matcha smoothie, fresh-pressed dragon fruit lemonade, and indulgent bulletproof nitro coffee fortified with coconut cream, almond butter, cacao nibs, and a coconut-based supplement called Brain Octane.

A bowl of brightly colored ramen in broth, with grilled kimchi, seaweed, soft boiled egg, and other fixins
Kalbi kimchi ramen
Alive and Well [Facebook]

Kitoko Maui

French-trained pastry chef Cole Hinueber left Spago to open this miniature five-star restaurant on wheels, currently parked at South Maui Gardens in Kīhei. In a monogrammed chef’s coat, Hinueber serves the fanciest loco moco in the islands: your choice of braised Maui beef, local venison, or lobster with crispy sushi rice, green papaya salad, and tamarind sauce topped with a fried egg. Don’t skip dessert: Rich cacao sorbet comes in a hollowed-out cacao pod. It’s best paired with the financier topped with liliko‘i sauce, toasted meringue teardrops, and Thai basil from the chef’s garden.

Tin Roof

Lines have snaked out the door of this daytime noodle shop ever since Top Chef alum Sheldon Simeon and his wife, Janice, opened it in spring 2016. They serve customizable bowls with a base of white rice, brown rice, or garlic noodles (the clear winner), crowned with fried chicken thighs, garlic shrimp, poke, or pork belly. The spicy fried chicken sandwich may be the island’s tastiest bargain. Check the board by the register (or Tin Roof’s Instagram) for daily specials, which frequently reflect Simeon’s Filipino heritage, like sarciado, a fish dish that includes egg and tomato. The restaurant is takeout only; take your goodies over to the picnic benches at nearby Kanaha Beach.

From above, a bowl of garlic shrimp over rice, staged with ingredients nearby.
Garlic shrimp bowl.
Tin Roof

Akamai Coffee

Akamai (which means “smart” or “clever” in Hawaiian) offers 100 percent Maui-grown and roasted coffee, including the award-winning Maui Mokka varietal. You can taste the quality in the cup, and the baristas know their business. In addition to perfectly foamy cappuccinos and lattes with decorative art, they offer New Orleans-style cold brew with chicory and seasonal espresso drinks spiked with macadamia nut and butterscotch. To nosh on, try the sophisticated avocado toast sprinkled with microgreens or the Belgian waffle with berry compote. Bags of whole roasted beans are pricey but worth it. Beyond the cafes, Akamai operates two drive-up windows, one in Kīhei and another in Kahului.

A latte filled to the brim of a coffee mug decorated with the cafe’s name in cursive script
Coffee at Akamai
Akamai Coffee [Facebook]

Spoon & Key

On an island where decent sandwiches are hard to come by, Spoon & Key (a rebranding of the Market Wailea) comes to the rescue. The seared ‘ahi melt on a brioche bun features local fish, the Proper BLT layers crispy pork belly, wild greens, and tomato on sourdough, and the Green Eggs & Kale panini is a delicious mess of melted provolone and whole grain mustard. On Friday and Saturday nights husband-and-wife team Chris and Tarah Kulis host pop-up dinners, where the weekly menu might feature pickled octopus with shishito peppers or seared scallops with parsnip and breadfruit. Ample portions are served family-style, and if you’re feeling hedonistic, you can add caviar or dry-aged rib-eye to the feast. The outdoor tables have a view, but noise from the road makes the indoor seating a better choice.

Only Ono BBQ

Every Saturday, Only Ono BBQ hosts a dim sum drive-in at the Heritage Hall in Pā‘ia. Just text in your order by Friday night, arrive at your chosen time slot, and pay via Venmo or cash in a sealed envelope, and your food is brought to your car. There isn’t a single dud on the menu, but standouts include the juicy siu mai, bolo bao, and what might be the crispiest, most decadent roast pork outside of China. Chef Keith Apana also knows barbecue inside out, so if there’s a Texas brisket special, nab it. And if you miss Saturday’s rendezvous, you’ll have a second chance the next day. Only Ono sells a pared-down menu, plus roast duck, at the Maui Sunday Market in Kahului. Either way, make sure to pre-order.

A takeout container packed with chopped roast pork with very crispy skin on top
Crispy roast pork from Only Ono.
Only Ono BBQ/Facebook

Mama's Fish House

At first glance, Mama’s comes across as a tourist snare; the South Pacific motif borders on kitschy and entrees cost an eye-popping $80. But this Polynesian fantasy has legitimate appeal. Waitstaff dressed in vintage Aloha wear deliver warm bread and amuse-bouches as salt air wafts in from the private cove. The kitchen’s consistency, honed by Maui-born executive chef Perry Bateman, justifies its international reputation. Each fish is listed along with who caught it and where — which, in an era of overfishing and mystery filets, is worth the price alone. Start with seared local octopus or grilled Haleakalā beef served in half a papaya, before diving into the fragrant bouillabaisse with saffron-scented chunks of Tristan lobster and Kauai shrimp. Reservations fill up months in advance, so book as early as possible.

A platter of fish and various side dishes.
Traditional Hawaiian Platter at Mama’s Fish House.
Bill Addison

Marlow

Chef Jeff Scheer is a purist. Every ingredient must be exact, from the hand-milled flour in the sourdough to the Lopes Farm beef Scheer buys whole and breaks down into meatballs, briskets, and loins. His one-room Upcountry pizza kitchen is a celebration of local ripeness; elevated pizza toppings include Kaua‘i prawns roasted in the wood oven, Kula zucchini lightly dressed in Parmesan cream, and braised pork with a dash of passionfruit butter. The fungi pie is a favorite, as is the duck confit with creamy cannellini beans and a hint of mustard. Bring friends so you can try each of the house-made gelatos: Kula strawberry, pistachio, cappuccino, and olive oil.

A margherita pizza held on a paddle in front of a pizza oven with a fire blazing inside.
Pizza fresh from the oven.
Marlow

Maui Bees

On a few idyllic acres in Kula, Leah Damon and her crew keep bees, grow organic vegetables, and tend to sweet-tempered milk cows, goats, and chickens. The pick-your-own farm is a gourmet Eden, where visitors can feast on pumpkin soup and gluten-free brownies, and take away jars of macadamia blossom honey. On Friday nights, the farm hosts three-hour experiences that include tours of the “bee museum” followed by a seven-course dinner. The vegetable-forward menu spotlights farm-grown novelties like honeycomb, mulberries, Surinam cherry, and asparagus picked at the peak of ripeness.

Nuka

The owners of Nuka turned an old Hā‘iku auto supply into a wonderfully modern izakaya and sushi bar. To start, order a few small plates like spicy edamame, miso eggplant, and kinpira gobo (slivered burdock and carrot dressed in sake). Then dive into a sashimi platter, including slices of ruby red tuna and translucent snapper supplied by the owners’ own fishing boat. Or for a simple, satiating meal, try a Nuka bowl: fresh herbs and veggies piled on rice and topped with ‘ahi katsu, blackened tofu, or shio koji salmon. Patience is necessary here; the restaurant doesn’t take reservations, and the wait is often long. 

A plate of several pairs of fish and shrimp nigiri, and a maki roll.
Nigiri at Nuka.
Nuka

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Aunty Sandy's Banana Bread

To make use of the island’s surplus of bananas, a cottage industry of stalls that sell banana bread thrive throughout Maui. On the road to Hāna (an extraordinarily beautiful drive that will melt the cynicism of even the most jaded traveler), Aunty Sandy’s sits at a jut in the road near Ke‘anae Point; happily, it’s the precise location in the winding drive where a snack seems especially appealing, so it’s little wonder the business has thrived for more than 30 years. Bakers pull fresh loaves from the oven throughout the day, so chances are high that your banana bread will still be warm. The stand also sells drinks and shave ice.

A loaf of banana bread with a slice cut off.
Banana bread.
Bill Addison

Balai Pata

For two decades, chef Joey Macadangdang was the talent at Roy’s Ka‘anapali, earning his mentor award after award. Finally, he struck out on his own with not just one, but four restaurants. His latest, Balai Pata, is a full-throated serenade to his Filipino heritage. Start with fried rice studded with Kona abalone or steamed buns packed with tocino (pork belly bacon), atchara (pickled papaya), and banana ketchup. Then dive into the sigang featuring a whole fish in sour tamarind broth with okra, long beans, and eggplant. The halo-halo, served in a hollowed coconut, is a heavenly end to any meal, though it’s almost a meal on its own; the crushed ice is ladled with coconut cream and topped with fruit jellies, fresh coconut, avocado, and a scoop of ube ice cream.

Kaohu Store

Follow the arrows through this humble grocery to the seafood counter where you’ll find the island’s best poke. The bright red ‘ahi, translucent hamachi, and tako (octopus) are so fresh they still taste like the sea. Order a sampling dressed sparingly with traditional Hawaiian seasonings: chile pepper and ‘inamona (roasted kukui nut and salt), ogo (the crunchy red seaweed often served in sushi restaurants), and līpoa (a much rarer seaweed with golden-brown leaves that taste like scotch). Pohole salad serves as the perfect accompaniment: Tender pohole ferns, with a texture similar to okra, are tossed with large chunks of tomato and onion.

Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice

Roughly 16 years ago, David and Ululani Yamashiro made it their mission to perfect Hawai‘i’s favorite refreshment: shave ice. They succeeded, creating immaculate snowballs of ice shaved extra fine and doused with house-made syrups. Syrup specialist Emi Yoshida continues to concoct new flavors, so alongside standards like mango, cherry, and pineapple you might find Thai tea, jamaica, salted caramel, and strawberry milk. The team makes each small-batch syrup with all-natural local ingredients, except for a few throwbacks like electric blue raspberry. As you wait in line, choose your three flavors, add a base of ice cream or adzuki beans, then crown your creation with haupia cream, matcha mochi, or li hing mui drizzle. If the options overwhelm you, ask the staff for suggestions. Ululani’s lost two locations in the Lahaina fire, but you can still sate your sweet tooth at three other spots in South and Central Maui.

A cup of shave ice in various colors topped with green cubes of mochi.
Shave ice at Ululani’s.
Shannon Wianecki

Tikehau Lounge

Unimpressive from the outside, this little lounge is decorated on the inside with lavishly hand-painted wallpaper and sea-urchin-shaped lanterns, the ideal backdrop for sophisticated libations. Let the bartender get you started with a frozen rum cannonball shot — a slushy mix of Plantation Pineapple rum, bitters, locally grown vanilla, liliko‘i, and lemon — served in a crystal pineapple goblet. Next move onto a classic Old Fashioned dressed up with hints of cacao or Kula persimmon. The zero-proof menu is just as cleverly conceived with fresh squeezed juices, dashes of bright blue spirulina, and milky sesame orgeat underpinning drinks in elegant stemware. Bar snacks range from small (candied macadamia nuts) to significant (lettuce cups loaded with Chamorro-style shrimp and fresh coconut).

A bright blue cocktail with a foamy top topped with a wavy garnish.
A striking cocktail at Tikehau.
Tikehau Lounge

Oao

The stylish sushi bar at the far end of the Wailea Gateway Center is named for its executive chef JR Oao (pronounced “wow”). The nigiri, paired with sea urchin and oyster shooters, is flawless, while the scallops in the baked California roll melt on your tongue. Reserve a table during happy hour (3 to 5 p.m. daily) for generously discounted small plates of rock shrimp tempura and salmon karaage. Big plates are worth the splurge, too. Juicy lamb chops rubbed with aji panca have just a hint of heat, stacked on a smear of miso. The ube pot de creme is an unexpected delight.

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