The Culinary Studio of the research institute Onjium showcases Korean food culture through a refined multi-course menu in their Michelin-starred restaurant. The institute’s mission, “making modern things more dignified by taking inspiration from the past,” is appropriate for dishes that take inspiration from historical regional recipes on the verge of disappearing. Cho Eun-hee, a certified Korean royal court cuisine trainee, leads the kitchen alongside researcher Park Seong-bae. A dining room overlooking the beautiful stonewalls of Gyeongbokgung Palace adds to the sense of heritage.

Hwangsaengga Kalguksu specializes in Pyongyang-style kalguksu (hand-cut noodles). The star of the menu is sagol kalguksu, a hearty bowl of noodles in thick beef bone broth with pumpkin, mushrooms, and green onions for garnish; the subtle sweetness from the vegetables nicely mingles with the umami of the broth. In the summer, try the special kongguksu, noodles in cold broth made from ground soybeans, sesame, and various nuts. No matter the time of year, order a side of the soft, meaty dumplings for the table.

Wind your way through the alleys of Seochon until you come across the unassuming hanoak (traditional Korean house) that houses Bar Cham. There, award-winning bartender Lim Byung-jin serves uniquely Korean signature cocktails, each named for the region that produced the local spirit featured in the drink. The interior, which goes hard on oak (or “cham” in Korean), is cozy and relaxing. Bar Cham made the 2022 Asia’s 50 Best Bars list, and there are various non-alcoholic cocktail options just as delicious as their alcoholic counterparts.

At Kkot, Bape Pida (Flower Blossom on the Rice) in Insa-dong, 95 percent of the ingredients for the vegetable-heavy menu are sourced directly from certified organic farms. Vegetable jeon (pancakes) and fresh salads with perilla dressing are delicious without the help of any artificial additives, but the signature item is bibimbap elegantly wrapped in a yellow egg bojagi (wrap). While not everything on the menu is vegan, there are enough options to make a vegan meal, along with a variety of high-quality traditional liquors. In recognition of its work toward a sustainable planet, the restaurant received a Green Star from the Michelin Guide in 2021.

Named the best bar in Korea on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars list in 2022, Charles H is a speakeasy discreetly hidden away in the lower level of the Four Seasons Hotel Seoul. After passing through a secret passage, guests find a glamorous interior suited for a lux hotel bar with decor inspired by Korea’s traditional metal ornaments. The cocktail list contains classics and original creations inspired by Charles H. Baker, the eponymous bon vivant who wrote the classic cocktail book The Gentleman’s Companion.

Tucked away in an alley in Euljiro, Eunjujeong originally specialized in pork belly, but it’s become famous for its kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew), a lunchtime special and a side on dinner orders of pork belly. Pots filled with uncooked pork and spicy, tangy kimchi wait for guests at each table; they cook up in minutes, but keep yours simmering longer to make the broth even tastier. Eunjujeong uniquely offers ssam, an assortment of leafy vegetables, to wrap chunky pieces of meat from the jjigae, and there is a vending machine where you can purchase different noodles to add to your broth. Be careful about making plans after a meal, as the pungent smell of kimchi jjigae can linger on guests for hours.

Wooraeok has been serving delicious Korean barbecue in Seoul since 1946, but the restaurant is also well known for its Pyongyang naengmyeon (Pyongyang-style cold buckwheat noodles). While most versions of this dish feature a subtle broth — often derided as bland — Wooraeok’s version is meatier and more flavorful, making it suitable for first-timers.

Born and Bred is a three-story paradise for hanwoo aficionados. The three above-ground floors operate as different concepts: a butcher shop, a private dining space, and a casual restaurant where you can enjoy a traditional barbecue meal. While the casual restaurant promises a superb experience, try your luck securing a spot at the exclusive basement counter. The meal features just about every cut of Korean beef and it’s become a benchmark for countless high-end barbecue restaurants.

The newtro (a portmanteau of “new” and “retro”) trend is responsible for the hipster takeover of the old neighborhood of Euljiro, where the narrow alleys have filled with a unique mixture of old and new restaurants and shops. Euljiro Boseok, a Korean bar and one of the forerunners of the trend, serves creative recipes using fresh, familiar ingredients. The most iconic dish is the spicy octopus capellini seasoned with perilla oil, though the prawn minari jeon (pancake) is also a must-try. Despite the Korean-style food, Boseok skips the usual Korean liquors like soju or makgeolli for a selection of Japanese sake and natural wine. The bar counter only seats 20, so make a reservation via Instagram DM.

When it comes to gomtang, a Korean beef soup traditionally served to the king, not many do it better than Hadongkwan. Gomtang has been the only item on the restaurant’s menu since it opened its doors in 1939, but you can customize your order with different cuts of meat such as brisket or tripe. Order at the door as you walk in and you’ll get your bowl almost right away. Don’t be alarmed when it arrives lukewarm; that’s how it’s always been served, even to royalty. Add leek, salt, and kimchi to taste at your table, and enjoy your cheap, quick, hearty lunch or breakfast.

For over a decade, Coffee Libre has pioneered the specialty coffee market in Korea. These days, the operation buys beans directly from over 100 farms in 12 countries, roasts them in Korea, and supplies more than 400 cafes in the country. Beyond supplying others, the brand has four of its own stores, including the main location in Yeonnam. Coffee Libre’s latte, made with an acidic double shot of espresso and warm milk, has become the standard for specialty coffee shops in Korea.

Every hike should end with homestyle Korean dishes and a drink like it does when you make the journey up to Miro Sikdang, a small pub-like Korean restaurant located on a hill near Hongik University. With a keen eye for exceptional ingredients, chef Seungjae Park creates simple yet delicious dishes like bulgogi, seafood scallion pancakes, and a spicy whelk salad with Spam.

For over a decade, JinMi Sikdang in Mapo has been proudly serving a single item: ganjang gejang, a lesser known Korean delicacy of soy-marinated crab. JinMi uses only the highest quality blue crabs from Korea’s west coast. The walls are full of traces of celebrities who have visited over the years. It is possible to walk in, but reservations are highly recommended, as they may run out of crabs even before dinner time.

Once filled with factories, Seongsu-dong now bustles with trendy cafes, restaurants, and pop-up stores. Despite the rapid and drastic changes in the area, some timeless classics remain, like Somunnan Gamjatang (famous gamjatang), which serves the eponymous savory red stew of pork bones and potatoes. Soju is unavoidable and don’t forget to add on sujebi, fresh hand-pulled dough that’s roughly torn straight into the hot broth at the table. While tang dishes are meant to be shared between two or more people, there is also a singular portion option of gamjaguk (potato soup), so don’t be afraid to visit alone. It’s always crowded and loud, so not the best option for those who want to enjoy a conversation over their meal.

Award-winning baristas, a dedicated buyer for green coffee beans, and a famed baker joined forces to start Fritz Coffee Company, which is seated in a beautiful old space that was once a Korean barbecue restaurant. The coffee powerhouse imports beans directly from producers around the world and roasts them in-house. The bread and pastries, freshly baked every morning by famed baker Minsu Heo, are the pairing that Seoul’s best cup of coffee deserves.

Fresh pasta is having a moment in Korea, and Bawi Pasta Bar is at the center of the trend. Chef Kim Hyun-Joong started the business as a one-man operation in a deserted alley, pressing dough into noodles to order. His early hit, mint pistachio pesto, has become a cult favorite, along with others like squid ink pasta topped with caviar. Although Bawi has relocated to a newer, bigger venue, Kim still cooks alone for the most part for the eight-seat counter, and much of his 10-course dinners unfold in front of guests’ eyes. The calm black interior and excellent playlist add a zen-like ambiance that wouldn’t be out of place at a high-end Japanese restaurant. Reservations through Catchtable, a local reservation app, are a must — though very hard to come by.

Right from its debut in 2019, Mongtan established itself as Korea’s quintessential barbecue spot for a unique experience. The signature udae galbi (long beef rib) is a real crowd-pleaser. It’s first cooked in the kitchen over a blazing straw fire — which might seem like a gimmick but gives the meat its distinctive aroma and flavor — before it’s seared over sizzling-hot metal pot lids at the table to finish. Complete your meal with naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles) or onion fried rice. Always expect to wait at least a couple of hours, unless you’re one of the lucky few who manage to score an online reservation (available only on weekdays).

Seoul’s first natural wine bar, Big Lights, played a significant role in today’s natural wine craze in Korea. The wine bar opened in 2017 as a semi-private bar that only took reservations through referrals — thankfully, that’s not the case anymore. Its new location functions as part of the showroom for Danish furniture brand Fritz Hansen, with furniture and lighting by the retailer. The wine list lives up to the hype, and the food cooked using wood fire is also top-notch. Keep an eye on their Instagram for occasional wine tastings, when rare wines are sometimes sold by the glass at reasonable prices.

At Hannamdong Hanbang Tongdak, 30-day-old chickens are marinated in a broth of Korean medicinal herbs (licorice, cinnamon, etc.) and slowly roasted over a wood fire rotisserie-style. The result is crispy, sweet skin encasing meat that is juicy and seasoned to the core. The chickens are a little small (so order one per person), but they’re quite substantial, stuffed with glutinous rice, garlic, jujube, and ginkgo. Try topping it off with a piece of kimchi to cut through the hefty flavors and pairing with a draft beer, which always goes well with a good chicken. Go around 5 p.m., when they open on weekdays, to avoid the multi-hour wait that builds up later in the evening.

Chad Robertson’s San Francisco icon, Tartine Bakery, chose Seoul as its second home, opening its first global outpost in 2018; the city now has six locations. The Dosan branch shares space with Kinfolk Lounge, the independent lifestyle magazine’s first physical space, in a two-story glass-walled building that boasts a beautiful seating area with a courtyard and a terrace. Enjoy Tartine classics such as sourdough and banana cream pie with specialty coffee while reading a Kinfolk magazine. The space also hosts various pop-ups and exhibitions, so check out the website for current events.

With access to fresh seafood and the rich cultural influence of Japan, Seoul is home to some of the finest sushi outside of Japan. There are options at all price points, from cheap lunch boxes to high-end sushi, but many cite Kojima as the best in Korea. Located on top of luxury clothing store Boon the Shop, the restaurant is led by chef Kyung Jae Park, one of Seoul’s most respected sushi veterans, who gained a following while training at the Shilla Hotel’s Ariake and then cemented his reputation at his first restaurant, Sushi Chohi.

Chef Kim Geon, who won a Michelin star for his restaurant Goryori Ken in 2022, also runs this casual Japanese izakaya where you’ll find a lengthy menu of traditional Japanese bar food in a relaxed atmosphere. Start with the bacon-spangled potato salad and a cold draft beer, soju, or sake while deciding the rest of your order. The signature sashimi moriawase collects the season’s best fish, including yellowtail, mackerel, and scallops, with each piece prepared and aged according to its characteristics to ensure maximum flavor. Another popular classic is Fukuoka-style mackerel fried rice, a satisfyingly salty and complex rice dish with shredded grilled mackerel, shiso, and umeboshi. While walk-ins are accepted, call ahead to check for availability.

While Seoul is home to a lot of high-end Japanese dining, Mitou stands out for its original kaiseki courses using the freshest seasonal ingredients. Japan-trained chefs Kwon Young-woon and Kim Bo-mi head the elegant and refined space comprised of an eight-seat counter and a private room. The restaurant is always booked months in advance.

Critically acclaimed restaurant Mingles shows the future of contemporary Korean dining. For almost a decade, chef Mingoo Kang’s innovative style — applying modern techniques and ingredients to Korean tradition — has continued to redefine the possibilities of the cuisine. From the warm, minimalist wooden interior to beautiful serveware created by local craftsmen, Mingles feels modern and traditional at the same time. The unconventional beverage program, which marries wines and Korean liquors, also elevates the experience.

Opened in 1983, Hansung Kalguksu is, as the name suggests, a beloved kalguksu (hand-cut noodles) restaurant. Hansung’s version is relatively simple, with clean beef broth and zucchini for topping. Although a good bowl of noodles always satisfies, Hanseong is a popular drinking spot known for its wide variety of dishes. Diners come to have a good time with chilled drinks and classic items such as hanwoo suyuk (boiled hanwoo beef), jeyuk (boiled pork), modeum jeon (assorted fritters including shrimp, oysters, and fish), and mandu (dumplings). Nakji-bokkeum, spicy stir-fried octopus, is a popular option, but the pro move is to tweak your order by adding kalguksu noodles. Keep in mind the restaurant closes on Saturdays but opens on Sundays.

This small Italian gelato shop keeps the city’s sweet-lovers happy with gourmet offerings using local fruits and vegetables, fresh nuts, and grains. Popular signature flavors include rice, honey with Gorgonzola, and gamtae (seaweed) caramel. The menu lineup changes every month; look out for seasonal flavors like corn, watermelon, and chestnut.

Seoul never sleeps, and many restaurants are open 24 hours to shelter the hungry souls wandering the city, including Joongang Haejang. The signature gopchang jeongol (beef intestine hotpot) perfectly balances savory intestines and spicy broth, ideal for a late-night feast or for remedying a hangover the next day. The fast turnover rate at the restaurant allows them to source the freshest ingredients from the market. While most items are sized for sharing, the individual-sized soups also provide a hearty meal.

Korea’s leading French dessert shop is operated by husband and wife patissier duo Otsuka Tetsuya and Min-sun Lee. The two met at Pierre Herme Paris in Tokyo, where Tetsuya served as executive chef and Lee as pastry chef. Using techniques accumulated in France and Japan, the two patissiers offer more than 50 high-quality desserts both classic and innovative, including pastries, cookies, and cakes. Maison M’O is often credited for popularizing madeleines in Korea, offering them in flavors like lemon, salted chocolate, and chestnut. If you can’t make it to the patisserie in Bangbae-dong, pick up some sweets online or at Blue Bottle Coffee locations across Korea.