Among the rice paddies in the sleepy fishing village of Sekinchan, Ninja Kitchen is a unique home-based restaurant serving an omakase-style menu of seafood with Teochew influences. The owner, globally renowned photographer Heng Mok Zung, welcomes guests to his own beautiful house and begins the dining experience with a private tour before setting them up at a table outside. Traditional tiffin carriers (a reference to Zung’s Nyonya heritage) emerge bearing dishes like lightly salted shrimp garnished with garlic and chiles served in an ice bowl, or saito fish balls filled with minced pork and fried till the outer skin is a crispy golden brown. Diners also have the option to enjoy their meal as a picnic out by a rice paddy as the sun dips down over the horizon, conjuring a brilliant golden mosaic over the field. At the end of the picnic, each table can release a sky lantern. Don’t forget to make a wish (or a reservation). [$$$$]

Deep within the shade of a coconut plantation, this weekend food market is home to rows of makeshift stalls, where proprietors whip up street food and snacks such as nasi lemak, rojak, and a variety of coconut drinks. It makes a refreshing pit stop on a hot day, but watch out for rain; there’s no covered area to duck under if the clouds open up. [$]

The first thing that greets diners at Suang Le is the unmistakable smell of fish, followed by the sight of live seafood swimming in tanks that line the wooden floor of the restaurant. Suspended on a dock above swampy mangroves in a small fishing village in Kuala Selangor, the restaurant is mostly patronized by locals, and fishermen pull up to the jetty alongside the dining area every so often to unload their catch. Look out for kung pao stir-fried mantis prawns with chiles and bell peppers as well as clams cooked with bamboo shoots in an aromatic, slightly spicy ginger broth. [$$$]

The city center has enough good restaurants to fill a lifetime of eating, but take a gastronomic detour to the small suburb of Kapar for Batu 8 Kapar Seafood. Like many others, the restaurant serves a menu abundant with seafood in an open-air, hangar-like space. Unlike competitors, though, Batu 8 offers an excellent fish mantou: a patty of battered dory, fried to a beautiful golden brown and served in a fluffy Chinese steamed bun. The slightly sweet and salty delicacy is best enjoyed piping hot when the fish is crispiest. [$$]

This bakery serves a variety of pastries, but it is best known for its apple strudel. Based on a recipe said to have originated in Perth, Australia, the strudel comes out looking like a laminated hoagie with juicy chunks of apples and cream oozing out of a bun of flaky, caramelized puff pastry. [$$]

This traditional kopitiam has been serving local breakfast favorites through half a century and three generations. In the early days, it was a three-story operation, with a coffee shop on the ground floor, restaurant on the second, and hotel on top. Only the coffee shop remains today, but it still draws plenty of customers for roti bakar (toasted bread with homemade coconut jam), soft-boiled eggs, and aromatic coffee. [$$]

In case the name didn’t give it away, the signature at this traditional bakery is the pandan layer cake, and it has been since the place opened in 1977. The cake consists of sheets of chiffon cake stacked in alternating layers with silky-smooth pandan jelly. The shop opens at 9:30 a.m., but there’s typically a long line snaking away from the shuttered doors long before then. Queue up if you want a shot at getting the cake before it gets swept off the shelf, though the yam or durian versions make good backups if you miss your shot. (Tip: You might want to bring an airtight container to contain the smell of that last one.) [$$]

Many cultures, especially across Asia, turn to porridge for comfort on sick days. But that’s not the kind you’ll find at Bubur Goreng, where the rice porridge isn’t boiled but stir-fried with generous helpings of minced pork, yam cubes, dried prawns, and pork lard. Pair it with a refreshing bottle of Tiger beer. [$$]

Whether you’re an early riser ready for a hearty breakfast at 9 a.m. or you got a delayed start  after a late night out — only rolling out of bed when hunger pangs roused you for sustenance at 3 p.m. — head to the Good Batch. The homey cafe is renowned for its angmoh — a hearty all-day breakfast consisting of eggs, grilled turkey ham, chicken sausages, sauteed mushrooms, a generous amount of golden hand-cut potatoes, and toasted garlic bread — as well as its Norwegian, freshly smoked gravlax salmon topped with sweet onion confit and accompanied by runny poached eggs with homemade chipotle hollandaise. Don’t forget a selfie on your way out in front of the chic graffitied exterior, which often shows up on Instagram. [$$$]

This cafe has been serving local dishes with light fusion twists since 2003, including its signature assam laksa, rice noodles cooked in a spicy fish broth and topped with sliced vegetables. For something a bit different, diners can get the dish with heartier spaghetti in place of rice noodles. [$]

In 1978, the owners of this restaurant started operating out of a house in the quiet Kampung Cempaka neighborhood in Petaling Jaya, but after four decades of steady work, they finally upgraded to a kiosk in 2019. The shop serves its namesake prawn fritters, deep fried to a crispy golden brown on the exterior, yet soft and chewy inside. They’re best consumed immediately while still hot and crispy, paired with the accompanying homemade chili sauce. [$]

Face off with durian, the so-called king of fruits. “Like pungent, runny French cheese” is how the late chef Anthony Bourdain once described it. “Your breath will smell as if you’d been French-kissing your dead grandmother.” At the Durian Man, the fruit appears in various culinary forms, ranging from chocolate to mochi to burnt cheesecake. [$$]

At the southern end of Damansara Uptown, you’ll discover this restaurant famous for its hokkien mee. The dish is better known in Penang, where wheat-and-egg noodles come swimming in prawn-based broth with thin slices of pork. The variation here comes not in a bowl but on a plate, with heftier noodles braised in a thick, dark, sweet soy sauce, dotted with pieces of juicy, slightly charred pork lard that lend a hint of sweetness and a touch of smokiness. Don’t forget to try a plate of the crispy, juicy fried chicken wings. [$$]

Fancy a romantic and exclusive dinner with your loved ones? Chef Jean makes house calls with his romantic dinners and also offers to cook for guests in his own warm home, a quick 15-minute drive from downtown Kuala Lumpur. Originally from Toulouse, he has spent a decade cooking in Michelin-starred restaurants. By day, he runs online cooking classes and occasional fun-filled camps for children. By night, he serenades his way into the hearts of his diners with a heady mix of jovial personality and French-inspired dishes. [$$$$]

Barcelona-born David Caral worked with such chefs as Sergi Arola and Nobu Matsuhisa before making his way to Kuala Lumpur to become executive chef — and eventual owner — of Mercat Gastrobar. Since 2014, the restaurant has won over local diners by transporting them to the streets of Spain with dishes like estofado de cordero (lamb stew with truffled mashed potatoes) and fricandó de ternera (Catolonian beef stew with mushrooms). [$$$]

If you’re exploring Kuala Lumpur on a tight schedule, head to Ruyi & Lyn. The Chinese restaurant serves fusion dishes with a local flair in a stylishly decorated banquet hall, and its signature bite-size Ruyi’s Sushi is a highlight for anyone pressed for time. The dish brings together on a platter the best of Malaysian street food, including nasi lemak (fragrant coconut rice with egg, sambal chili, and anchovies), Hainanese chicken rice, and mango sticky rice. [$$$$]

What started out as a part-time passion project creating personalized gifts blossomed into a full-time job for owner Madeleine Lew, who took the leap from the finance world into the food business in 2019. She popularized customized macarons in Malaysia, attracting fans with cute, hand-painted sweets in a variety of flavors, including vanilla, strawberry, and mango. There are fun options dressed for any occasion. [$$$]

Char kuey teow — stir-fried rice noodles — are beloved in Malaysia. This stall in the Brickfields neighborhood (the city’s Little India) has earned its place among the city’s best, operating for three decades from a mobile stove located along a bustling road. Each plate consists of piping hot noodles served with generous amounts of pork lard, slices of Chinese sausage and fish cakes, fresh cockles and prawns, crunchy bean sprouts, a drizzle of garlic, and a dash of caramel-infused dark soy sauce. The hawker passionately tosses the ingredients together in a well-seasoned wok, which imparts a kiss of wok hei, the sweet-smoky flavor achieved from caramelization over immense heat. [$]

From breakfast through lunch, groups of family and friends gather at Jin Xuan Hong Kong for springy shumai filled with succulent pork and topped with crab roe; crusty and flaky egg tarts; and other dim sum favorites. This central location acts as the hub for seven other outlets of the same chain across Kuala Lumpur. [$$$]

Immerse yourself in Malaysian heritage at this cafe. It’s located in a shophouse that dates to the early 1920s and has much of the original architecture intact — including its swinging doors, complete with wooden latches, straight out of an Old West saloon. Don’t let the rustic decorations distract you from the excellent lineup of Peranakan dishes, such as ayam buah keluak (chicken in tamarind sauce with buah keluak seeds) and ayam pongteh (chicken stew flavored with preserved bean paste). [$$$]

Thrill-seekers and cocktail drinkers will find plenty to love at the Deceased, a themed bar where every night is like Halloween. The eerie decor is based on Chinese mythology of the afterlife, with plenty of skulls (sometimes filled with nachos) and drinks in spooky glassware. Beneath the hokey decorations are serious cocktails with ingredients like chrysanthemum kombucha and Yakult. [$$$$]

This cafe is situated in a stark black building that dates to 1927, when it housed the wardens of the neighboring Pudu Jail. Despite the foreboding exterior, the building is home to aromatic cups of coffee and all-day breakfast fusion dishes served amid stylish, homey decor. Don’t forget to try the signature soft-shell crab burger. [$$$]

Three friends opened the original Pelita shop to serve Indian-Malay cuisine in Penang, but the business has grown over the years into a famed chain with an impressive 25 locations. Grab a plate and choose from a buffet of crunchy vegetables, curries (chicken, crab, prawn), ayam kandar (fried chicken marinated in curry seasoning), and sotong goreng tempura (squid generously dipped in batter, fried to a golden brown, and served with a slice of lime). The counter-service spot can get pretty crowded during peak hours, but the queue moves fairly quickly and the place is open 24 hours a day, so you can always stop by when the traffic’s a bit lighter. [$$]

Just a stone’s throw down Jalan Alor from Wong Ah Wah, Restoran Meng Kee Grill Fish is a sight to behold. Sweating chefs stand in a row in front of woks, engulfed in clouds of steam and furiously and precisely tossing food into the air. The pans and spatulas clang in a metallic symphony as the chefs turn out crowd favorites like fried rice, oyster omelets, and spreads of fresh seafood. [$$]

The magic at this roadside stand starts to unfold at 5 a.m. That’s when owner Lin Dan checks on her chicken broth, already simmering with potatoes — which lend a nice starchy texture — from the night before. She also prepares tender, juicy chunks of pork for dumplings, served deep fried or in soup. The only other dish available is an unctuous bowl of chewy noodles, slicked with sesame oil and enriched by dark soy sauce spiked with caramel. Both are made from recipes passed down through generations like closely guarded family heirlooms. [$]

Every Wednesday as the sun sets, rows upon rows of stalls spring to life over a mile-long stretch of road, selling clothing, accessories, bags, handicrafts, and, of course, street food until midnight. Pre-pandemic, there were sometimes more than 700 stalls in attendance; these days, about half remain (though more are slowly returning). Still, it’s the biggest night market in the city, with a vast array of local favorites. Though individual stalls tend to come and go, you’ll likely find an endless list of local snacks, including rojak, chendol, cute multicolored steamed buns filled with chocolate or red beans, and an all-time-favorite: crispy deep-fried chicken doused in an extremely addictive salted egg yolk sauce. Set aside a minimum of two hours and an empty stomach. [$]

This family-run restaurant has been serving bowls of chili pan mee since 2004 and has 10 locations throughout Malaysia and Singapore. Locals love the dish of wheat noodles topped with fried anchovies, minced meat, and chili. Pair your bowl with light snacks such as fried dumplings. [$]

Ask any local and they’ll tell you there’s no better remedy for a hot and humid day in Kuala Lumpur than a refreshing bowl of chendol (you’ll get the same answer, though by different names and spellings, in cities across Southeast Asia, where the street-side dessert is ubiquitous). Curls of green rice-flour jelly are submerged in coconut milk with brown sugar syrup, red beans, and either jackfruit or durian. Penang Road started out with humble beginnings in 1936 but has since grown into a chain with seven outlets across Malaysia. [$]