THE PLATE AND THE PASS

I am the canvas on which the cook paints, the frame that draws the viewers eye to the image drawn. I am the plate – too often disregarded except by those who understand the importance of the canvas and the frame. The right plate makes all the difference in how the menu item is perceived and the first impressions of a meal. Should the plate be a work of art unto its own or should it simply be a blank page serving as the accomplice to the painter’s work?

Pure, bleached, bone white with a two-inch border helps the centerpiece stand out. The clean, shiny border pulls the eye to the perfectly executed cut of meat; caramelized, crisp skin of chicken or duck, or scored and butter browned Diver’s scallops standing tall on the plate waiting for fork and knife, is accomplishing its important goal. Maybe a thin gold or silver rim will add a touch of elegance and a few dollars in price value, but for the most part, “simple” makes a better canvas.

The plate, when sparkling clean, free of nicks and cracks, warm for hot foods and chilled for cold is the dish washer’s contribution to the dining experience. Scraped, washed, sanitized, and stacked – these plates are the opportunity for pearl divers to stretch the canvas on which cooks will paint and sculpt, design, and arrange, and present their work for critique. Without the attention to canvas detail, the artist will find it difficult to present their best work.

 The plate receives and it gives, it supports and highlights, cradles, and presents, and demonstrates on return, how well the art was received. A clean plate is the review that cooks hope for, one with food remaining is a reminder that even the most perfect plate cannot compensate for a lack of execution with the cook’s brushes – tongs, knives, pans, and heat.

The painting is complete – it’s time to present the work. The cook slides the plate gently down “the pass” – the place of inspection, awaiting the preliminary critique by the chef or expeditor. Spun to the left and then the right, the eyes of the critic are seeking imperfections: a thumb print of the rim, or smudge from a misplaced drop of sauce. Does it match the design as envisioned? Is the menu item complete, perfectly cooked, assembled as planned? A final wipe with a clean side towel, placement of a fresh herb or plate signature garnish and a nod to the cook means: “good to go”. If not up to standards, then the artist must make amends. “Refire” or “Replate” is the unemotional directive back to the cook. An explanation may come later, but for now – the artist does not question – action must be taken before the art of the plate is on display.

“Pick up” is the directive from the expeditor. The art is ready to hang, ready for the most important critique, ready to face the audience anticipating another masterpiece to interpret. The server, starched napkin folded and draped over their wrist, receives the painting using the napkin to shield the heat from their fingertips and to prevent any further prints on the rim; pulls plates from their staging in the pass, nods to the chef, and moves confidently and proudly to the guest table. With starched napkin in hand, the server presents the canvas and painting from the right side of the guest with the right hand so as not to interrupt the awaiting diner, states the name of the dish, turns the canvas so the main part of the painting is facing the knife, and asks if anything else is required at the table. A refill of wine, and the server steps away.

The guest stops their conversation, beholds the work of art in front of them, turns the plate to the left and then to the right to take it all in, inhales to enjoy the aroma of the dish, and simply says: “WOW”. The ultimate critique will come as they savor each bite, changing the art painted on the plate to a few streaks of sauce and the remnants of an herb stem. The cook’s work was well received, and the plate, pass, and table have done their jobs.

Cook’s and chef’s need the right tools to accomplish their work. Don’t underestimate the importance of the plate just as the artist respects the frame and the canvas, and the writer pays due respect to the quality of paper used and the cover of the book.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER – RESPECT THE PLATE

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One response to “THE PLATE AND THE PASS”

  1. Jennifer Denlinger Avatar
    Jennifer Denlinger

    Now I want some scallops. Yum

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About Me

PAUL SORGULE is a seasoned chef, culinary educator, established author, and industry consultant. These are his stories of cooks, chefs, and the environment of the professional kitchen.

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