TO A CHEF – SIMPLE ISN’T EASY

Keep it simple – do it well

The word “simple” is so misunderstood. We understand “easy” to mean without much physical, mental, or emotional effort, but “simple” is hard to define because simple in a kitchen can be quite challenging physically, mentally, and emotionally. These words are not synonymous.

Brewing coffee is easy, but brewing exceptional coffee is not simple. The ingredients are the same: roasted coffee beans and water. Heat the water to a certain temperature, grind the beans, and pour the water over the beans – easy. Why is it then that so many places make lousy coffee, and a few produce a beverage that is comforting, exciting, and memorable? Of course, there are different qualities of beans, different levels of roast, and even different qualities of water, but mastering the simple process of proper brewing can take a very long time, a great deal of consistent effort, and a passion for the process and the product.

To many chefs – “simple” is a goal, easy is not; complex is un-necessary, and difficult is real only when a chef resists the connection to the ingredients and the result. When a chef allows Mother Nature to lead the way and present ingredients as they were meant to be, then simple can become a means to an end. What do we (chefs and cooks) want anyway? We want beautiful, delicious, sensual food; food that represents history and tradition, and food that respects those who grow, raise, catch, and deliver food to the kitchen. This is our simple goal that to those without purpose may seem easy, but to the serious can become a life’s pursuit.

Easy may seem simple, but simple, as defined here, is never easy. Over the past few decades, the most admired seafood restaurant in the country and one of the greatest restaurants in the world has been Le Bernardin in New York City. Operated by Chef Eric Ripert, this mecca for lovers of fish employs a simple approach: bring in superior raw materials and allow them to speak for themselves. This approach has won the restaurant international praise, four stars from the New York Times, three Michelin Stars, and a James Beard Award. Ripert and his team have always been in dogged pursuit of “simple”. Simple takes focus, understanding, commitment to consistency, passion, and great sources for ingredients that come from those with the same level of commitment.

When we take the easy route then result will rarely inspire, instill pride, or build great memories. When we are “all-in” with the simple approach then you will not only create those memories and inspire others, but you will also set yourself in a space that only a few own.

A Le Bernardin experience will set you back a few hundred dollars per person and as such may not be for everyone, but the simple approach need not be reserved for those who can charge and can afford to pay what is charged. A dedication to simple can be a destination for your local taqueria, pizzeria, barbeque joint, or breakfast diner. Wherever cooks and chefs declare their mission to buying great raw materials and respecting what they offer on the plate; wherever the crew in the kitchen dedicates themselves to “doing it right” and never wavering from the standards of simplicity, then the experience that Ripert seeks can find a home.

There have been many times in my kitchen history where “complexity” was a badge of honor. The more ingredients, the more difficult the preparation, the more complex the flavor combinations, the more it was felt that the plate was worthy of being great. The older I get, the more I tend to challenge that premise. There is possibly a place for both, but memories are made from that fresh from the ocean, brushed with quality olive oil, dusted with sea salt and lemon, simply grilled piece of fish. Guests will remember that duck breast pan seared and lightly roasted duck breast that is medium rare and drizzled with pan juice and a touch of wild berries. They will salivate over a perfectly roasted chicken that has been basted with its own juice throughout cooking, brushed with fresh rosemary and butter and finish with the juice from roasted preserved lemon, and they will bow in respect for those who make tacos with home pressed and grilled tortilla. It’s simple, but it isn’t easy.

At a time when restaurants and chefs are struggling to find ways to be successful, to make their mark, and please an audience that is searching for a plate of food to remember, I would implore them to push aside what is easy (the menu that everyone else offers, the dish that takes little effort, the items that even an untrained cook can complete and put on a plate) and dedicate themselves to simplicity – a formula that respects the ingredients and works relentlessly to let them shine on the plate. Dedication to real simplicity may just be an answer to the challenges of the day. Don’t open a pizzeria – open the best pizzeria that respects the traditions and ingredients prepared as they were meant to be prepared. Don’t open a sandwich shop – open the best sandwich shop with an eye on every simple detail: great bread, in-house roasted meats, farm fresh, seasonal vegetables, and the knowledge of each ingredient and its source.

Simply great is not a statement, it is a formula. Dedicate yourself to pure simplicity, an all-out pursuit of doing it right and allowing the ingredients to speak, and you will find a path to greatness.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

www.harvestamericacues.com  BLOG

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One response to “TO A CHEF – SIMPLE ISN’T EASY”

  1. Jennifer Denlinger Avatar
    Jennifer Denlinger

    This is a great one!

    Sorry we didn’t get time to catch up in Charleston.
    Hope to soon.
    JD

    Chef Jennifer M. Denlinger PhD, CCC
    Chef Instructor, Valencia College

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About Me

PAUL SORGULE is a seasoned chef, culinary educator, established author, and industry consultant. These are his stories of cooks, chefs, and the environment of the professional kitchen.

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