Harvest America CUES BLOG

It’s been 89 years since Escoffier stood in front of a range for the last time, yet his presence is still felt by professional cooks and chefs. One could claim, and rightfully so, that he had the greatest influence on the profession and that the chefs’ job was elevated to new levels because of Escoffier’s efforts, approach towards cooking, vision, and skill.

In every office where I sat over the past 30 some odd years, has hung this picture of the master craftsman, leader, and ambassador of proper cooking and kitchen organization. He has been one of my primary motivators and reference points throughout my career in food. Like Walt to the Disney organization, I have found myself turning to that picture when major decisions were to be made and asking myself: “What would Escoffier do in this situation?”

My time before a range has passed, but my engagement in the business of food carries on, so I am still aware of the challenges and opportunities, the strengths and weaknesses, the direction and sometimes lack of direction that surround this incredible industry. So, given all of that, I thought it might be a good time to reflect on these challenges and opportunities, strengths and weaknesses, directions, and lack thereof by asking: “What would Escoffier do in these situations?” Now I obviously never knew Chef Escoffier, but I know enough about him to understand how he might react to these situations. I have read nearly every article and book about his life, visited his museum in France, and had conversations with his great grandson, so I feel comfortable speaking in his behalf.

[]       A DIMINISHED LACK OF DESIRE TO START A CAREER IN FOOD:

I believe that Escoffier would turn this situation around and point the finger not at future cooks but rather the operations who would like to hire them. He would ask: “What are you doing to excite and inspire the next generation of cooks? How is your kitchen organized, how much time are you willing to invest in training, how do you (the chef and owner) present yourself as a leader and mentor, how serious are you about the right way to cook, how open are you to sharing, and how effective are you at building a team of professionals who look and act the part? When you answer those questions, you will have your answer to this challenge.”

[]       AN INDUSTRY THAT IGNORES WORK/LIFE BALANCE:

There is no question that the generation of cooks that worked for and with Escoffier and a few generations after were willing to give everything to the position. They accepted “kitchen first” and everything else as secondary. Looking back, Escoffier would probably admit, to some degree, that this was not the best approach and would encourage chefs and operators to build in this balance. He would suggest that when on the job, every serious cook and chef must be 100% present and totally dedicated to the craft, but that a balanced cook is one that performs at the highest level for the length of his/her career and that the operation will benefit from a cook who is healthy physically, mentally, and emotionally. A perfect example would be Chef Eric Ripert from Le Bernadin Restaurant in New York City – consistently rated as one of the top restaurants in the world. Study his approach that stems from a work/life balance while accepting nothing short of excellence in every aspect of his restaurant.

[]       RESTAURANTS TURNING AWAY FROM CLASSIC TECHNIQUE & ADOPTING THE USE OF CONVENIENCE PRODUCTS:

Escoffier was very innovative. His book: Le Guide Culinaire boasted 5,000 recipes, some of which were not his, but were protected historically for their excellence. Many of these recipes, and the way that they were integrated into his kitchens were groundbreaking. His kitchen organization: the kitchen brigade, revolutionized how the back of the house operated, and the experience of the restaurant guest. So, I would guess that his approach towards new techniques, even if they strayed from the classical approach would be welcome and if proven better – embraced. The same question could be posed in music: “What would Mozart or Beethoven think of the synthesizer?” Having read about their incredible talents and technique I would be willing to bet that they would have been excited about and anxious to incorporate this new instrument in their repertoire.

[]       RAISING PRICES TO SOLVE NARROW PROFIT MARGINS:

Escoffier was all about creating dining experiences while ensuring that his kitchens contributed to the financial success of the hotels where his food was served. He would not have been opposed to raising prices if the experience had proven value and wowed the guest. However, before doing this he would observe and analyze the operation to make sure controls were in place and that the reason for raising prices was not a lack of efficiency or caring on the part of his cooks.

[]       A GROWING INTEREST IN DELIVERED MEALS OVER RESTAURANT DINING:

Again, Escoffier the innovator, would have looked to this as an opportunity. However, his commitment to excellence, to the experience, and to value would prevail. He would spend endless hours trying to figure out how to re-create the experience of in-house dining through home delivery. If he could determine how to maintain the highest quality food that looked as beautiful as it did in his dining room, and that the service was equal to what a guest would experience in the Ritz Carlton Hotel, then he would be very excited about home delivery. We can all learn from this – ask the question: “If I take on home delivery then how will I maintain quality and promote a positive experience for the guest?” Sacrifice nothing and then a chef can sleep at night.

[]       THE GROWING INFLUENCE OF PROCESSED FOODS AND RESTAURANTS THAT THRIVE ON THEIR USE:

Escoffier once stated:

“Great cooking is about using the freshest, highest quality ingredients.” 

Enough said!

[]       THE DECAY OF PROFESSIONALISM IN KITCHENS:

Escoffier and his partner in hotel experiences: Cesar Ritz believed in the mantra: “We are ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen.” This is still the over-riding mission of Ritz Carlton Hotels. Escoffier forbade swearing in his kitchens, expected his cooks to dress like professionals on their days off, instilled pride in the chef’s uniform, and demanded professional behavior of all who were part of his team. He would not have tolerated anything less for it only demeans the profession and reflects poorly on the operation and all who work there.

[]       TECHNOLOGY AND ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE IN KITCHENS:

Again, I don’t believe Escoffier would have been threatened by technology if he saw that it was able to maintain the quality and the experience he expected. If it could improve efficiency and the quality of life for all stakeholders, then he would have welcomed it in his kitchens.

[]       CULINARY DEGREES VS. APPRENTICESHIP:

Escoffier was a consummate trainer and teacher. He would have been thrilled to see schools of cooking thrive and would have been an active supporter of all methods used to build skills and understanding. I don’t think he would have been thrilled with the high cost of education and the debt that young people incur. Being a product of apprenticeship himself, he would have invested even more time in bringing a stronger influence of “WHY” into the apprenticeship model and finding ways of connecting the apprenticeship experience into the education model, especially if it could help to improve the quality of both and reduce the financial burden on the student.

[]       HOTEL DINING AS AN RELUCTANT AMMENITY VS. A CENTRAL FOCUS:

Escoffier’s experience and influence was most prevalent in hotel environments. His partnership with Cesar Ritz helped to place hotel dining on a pedestal as the premier example of fine dining. He would have been appalled at the lack of consideration for the importance of dining to the lodging experience and would have chastised any hotelier who failed to recognize this. Escoffier would have also recognized the opportunity to rise above mediocrity and be the benchmark for others to aspire to.

[]       THE FOOD NETWORK, MOVIES ABOUT CELEBRITY CHEFS, AND COMPETETIONS SUCH AS HELL’S KITCHEN AND TOP CHEF: I believe, initially, Escoffier would have been amused at the “theater” of cooking as entertainment but would have quickly seen the damage that it could inflict on the industry. He would have been angry at any portrayal of cooks and kitchens as anything less than professional environments and would have actively opposed the false impressions that “theater” supports. He would have scolded those who encouraged anyone to decide one way or the other about a career in the kitchen through false representation of a cook’s life and the work involved.

So, I just looked up to my picture of Auguste Escoffier and gave him a thumbs up. I hope that I portrayed his character and beliefs appropriately. For a moment, I thought I saw him smile and wink. He still inspires me every day and deserves a presence in every professional kitchen.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

“We are ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen.”

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

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