CULINARY EXCELLENCE WITHOUT SNOBBERY

Even the Michelin Guide broke the ice of snobbery in recent years. How’s that for an introductory sentence? Yes, it’s true – when the Michelin Guide decided to recognize some exceptional street food vendors with Michelin Stars, they broke the barrier of snobbery noting that excellence can happen outside of traditional fine dining.

In Singapore, 2016, Chan Hon Meng of Hawker Chan’s and Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle both won a Michelin star for their street-food establishments. Suddenly, the restaurant world was able to loosen the grip of recognition that cost a fortune to earn and maintain and realize that when it comes down to it, it’s all about food excellence measured on taste and flavor as well as appropriate value. “Is it worth it” (not necessarily price) seemed to rise as a real factor in determining the long-term success of a restaurant. When excellence is involved, when the food excites and inspires, when the passion of the cooks is evident, then those focused on the plate can and should be proud.

There is a lesson here for cooks, chefs, and restaurateurs – a simple message that stands out from every other “road to success” Prophet: Whatever you do, do it well. Become world-class at whatever you attempt in the business of food and “keeping it simple” is not a copout, it might be the most important words of advice.

If fine dining is your objective, then make the commitment knowing what’s involved. The path will involve a focus on physical plant, dynamic location, extraordinary service, relentless attention to detail, and way over the top food quality and uniqueness. Don’t settle for less than excellence in any of these areas if world-class is your objective. It will take super-human effort, ample amounts of time, arduous training, and boat loads of cash.

If, on the other hand you want to operate a hot dog stand then make sure you are relentlessly in pursuit of the label “most unbelievably outrageous hot dog to be found anywhere on the planet”. The focus on location, physical plant, and extraordinary service may be off your radar but the hot dog – oh my God, it must be earth shakingly good. Maybe it is an in-house made tube steak made from your special blend of beef brisket, shoulder, and sirloin; just the right amount of fat, a proprietary blend of spices, in a natural casing, first boiled and then grilled over an open fire comprised of a mixture of hard woods till it chars and pops open from the pressure of steam accumulating under the skin, and basted with a salty cider mixture; served on a griddled, crusty baguette style roll, and offered with a plethora of toppings from wild mushroom sauté, to kimchi or pulled pork. Wrap it in front page copies of the New York Times and serve with home cut and fried, salt, and peppered potato chips, and a pickle that you marinated for two months and WOW, people will line up around the block to experience it.

For the cook who dreamt of working in that fine dining restaurant but finds a place preparing these incredible hot dogs to standing room only crowds of people – relish the opportunity to be part of excellence.

Every type of food, every genre of restaurant has its place and serves a purpose, but it is only the one that insists on excellence and steps over mediocrity that will fit the mold of world-class. These are the operations that cooks are proud to work in, chefs are inspired to lead, restaurateurs are excited to own, and guests are enthusiastic about supporting. They do this every minute of every day, never letting a thought of mediocrity slip into their mindset. Excellence attracts excellence! World-class providers of food will always attract the most inspired chefs, the most competent cooks, the most dedicated team members, and the most enthusiastic patrons.

What are you good at and what will it take to be excellent and then world-class? What will it take for your operation to be synonymous with a product’s superiority? When individuals speak of fine dining excellence they will often follow with reference to chef/restaurateurs with names like Boulud, Keller, Achatz, Robuchon, or Morimoto. What will it take for you to become part of that club? This should be your quest even if it takes a decade or so to get there.

When a conversation turns to fish tacos, what will it take for people to automatically mention your restaurant name or a chef’s name in the same breath?

“Oh, put this fish taco stand in Seattle, Washington on your bucket list. Their fish tacos are to die for.”

Learn everything you can about each component of that taco: selecting the right dried corn, how to make your own masa. Should the tortilla be hand formed? What is the right temperature for the griddle to cook the tortilla and then how should they be held until assembly? Where should the fish come from, how should they be packed in ice, filleted, and then prepared? What is the right balance of seasoning? What is the best fish taco stand in Central America – shouldn’t I visit and maybe even volunteer to work there for a month before attempting to open my own?

If you want to make world-class pizza, then it only makes sense to study the product and craft first. Spend time in Naples, Italy, research the right flour, and the water quality for the dough. What are the best tomatoes, the most appropriate cheese, and the toppings that make a pizza pop? Should we use a wood fired oven or gas hearth? What temperature works best for crust development? Visit the top ten pizza shops in the U.S. and spend time with the pizzaiola observing and gaining confidence with kneading, proofing, and then stretching the dough. Learn how to be world-class and then become relentless in that pursuit. Don’t just open a pizza shop – open the world’s best pizza shop. Otherwise, why even bother?

Choose your genre and then become obsessed. It’s not just about the trimmings of what looks like a great restaurant, it’s the level of commitment to world-class that leads to this perception in everyone’s mind.

As a friend of mine once said in response to a question about entering an over-crowded competitive market with his business concept:

“It may be crowded, but there is always room to be the best in any market. The best will win and that’s my goal.”

Restaurateurs want the glory of greatness, chefs want the reputation of world-class to build their portfolio, cooks seek the pride of accomplishment that excellence brings, and customers will always be drawn to the leader of the pack. Become part of everyone’s bucket list and you might just be able to sleep at night.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER – EXECUTE LIKE A WORLD CLASS OPERATOR

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

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About Me

PAUL SORGULE is a seasoned chef, culinary educator, established author, and industry consultant. These are his stories of cooks, chefs, and the environment of the professional kitchen.

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