Howell Mountain has become legendary over the past half-century for its big and long-lasting red wines, especially Cabernet Sauvignons and Zinfandels, which has also made them quite expensive in most cases. But, as is often pointed out, a value wine doesn’t have to be an inexpensive one – it can also be an expensive wine that delivers enjoyment equal to its price tag. As always, that is the buyer’s choice.
This edition of The Dozen offers three excellent Howell Mountain wines for your consideration, along with nine other wines that may be of interest.
Pick and choose where your tastes and resources lead you.
2023 Hecht & Bannier Picquepoul/Chardonnay Vin de France ($15). An unusual blend that “pi(c)ques” your curiosity to try it. With 75% of the former and 25% of the latter, it is actually really good – think juicy apples with a spicy kick and a line of clean acidity that isn’t tart.
2020 M. Chapoutier “Les Granilities” Saint-Joseph (38). A very clean, full-bodied white from the upper Rhone, with warm fruitiness of melon and tropical fruits and a lightly peppery finish.
2019 Thomas Farge “Plan Rapproche” Saint Peray ($45). Another upper Rhone white, and a lively one, very fruity and juicy with tropical fruits and some spiciness.
2021 Bouchaine Estate Carneros Chardonnay ($40). Lovely and well-structured – very juicy with flavors of apples and a touch of citrus peel followed by a hint of toastiness in the finish.
2021 Bouchaine Estate Carneros Pinot Noir ($45). Medium-bodied with a crisp, lovely, mature cherry flavors, a touch of cream and a little pencil lead in the finish to underline its tastiness.
2016 Ramôn Bilbao “Mirto” Rioja ($48). A fairly robust Tempranillo with great flavors of plums and cherries, some hints of wood and dusty tannins.
2018 Sant’Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella ($50). Nice range of flavors from red to savory fruits and gentle cask flavors – supple tannins and a very lengthy finish promise of long aging.
2018 Pasqua “Familia Pasqua” Amarone della Valpolicella ($51). Fruitier than its older partner (below) with nice jammy fruit flavors (but not textures) and a lot of vibrancy and, yes, good notes of oak.
2013 Pasqua “Mai Dire Mai” Amarone della Valpolicella ($85). Just a lovely old wine from partially raisined grapes, featuring lots of preserved fruit flavors (figs, apricots) with harmonious barrel accents.
2019 Clif Family “Cold Springs Vineyard” Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($168). Lean and tight (as are its two siblings below) with dark berry fruits and hints of bacon, carbon, dusty tannins – big and delicious.
2019 Clif Family “Croquet Vineyard” Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($192). Leaner and sparer in structure than the Cold Springs, but with some red fruits, herbal notes and stony minerality.
2019 Clif Family “Cima” Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($250). A little fuller than the other two, with similar flavor profiles with some notes of chocolate added in. Delicious, of course.
Prices listed are generally SRP or from wine-searcher.com. As more wineries are now shipping direct-to-consumer, check the winery website if you can’t find a bottle in your retail store.
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