The Dozen This Month

The Dozen – Douro Runs Sweet – And Dry

The table wines of Portugal's famous wine river are catching up with the dessert wines.

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For centuries, the Douro Valley of Portugal was known for its exquisite Ports – big, rich, sweet dessert wines – and it still is. As many people have now discovered, the region can also produce very nice red and white table wines, and, with a few years of practice, are getting better and better doing so.

One of the traditional wine families of the Douro are the Symingtons, who own multiple Port brands and also were pioneers in introducing the world to dry table wines of the Douro. In this issue of The Dozen, we feature a few of them.

2021 Symington Douro Branco ($12). Refreshing, a little tart, with good apple, quince, stone fruit flavors and a firm finish.

2023 Domaine Bousquet Tupungato Unoaked Chardonnay ($13). Doubtful you will find a better price for a clean and crisp Chard with a hint of cream, plus it’s organic.

2023 Hecht & Bannier Languedoc Rosé ($14). A Syrah-Cinsault-Grenache blend is a somewhat spicy mixture of red and black fruits with light tannins.

2023 Pink Flamingo “Gris de Gris” Sable de Carmargue Rosé ($13). Very light-bodied, crisp, creamy with strawberry and orange flavors.

2023 Pink Flamingo “Tête de Cuvée” Sable de Carmargue Rosé ($14). Pleasant, but no complexity – orange and other citrus flavors with a crisp finish.

2022 Domaine Bousquet Tupungato Malbec ($13). Nice, spicy red fruit, crisp but not lean, touch of tannins.

2017 Symington “Quinta do Ataíde” Douro Red Wine ($29). Fresh, textured, spicy, a little tart with flavors of cranberries and elderberries.

2021 Cormorant “Black Ridge Vineyard” Santa Cruz Mountains Red Wine ($34). Lean, lots of red fruit, little bit of cream in the finish, hint of mint, hint of chocolate.

NV Warre’s Fine White Port ($19). Rich, sweet and creamy – okay by itself or over ice, even better with tonic.

NV Warre’s “Heritage” Ruby Porto ($19). A good rich and fruity entry level Port to enjoy while you’re working your way (and your income) up to the vintages.

NV Warre’s “Optima 10” Tawny Porto ($34). Rich fruit accented by nutty flavors of barrel aging (10 years) help make up a delicious, vibrant yet substantial fortified wine.

2016 Warre’s Vintage Porto ($134). There’s the good stuff, then there’s the great stuff – rich, dark, robust yet velvety flavors of elderberry and cherry, dark chocolate and walnuts. Still young and fresh.

Prices listed are generally SRP or from wine-searcher.com. As more wineries are now shipping direct-to-consumer, check the winery website if you can’t find a bottle in your retail store.

Roger Morris writes about wine, food and travel for The World of Fine Wine, Drinks Business, Meininger's Wine Business International, Wine Enthusiast and other publications in the U.S. and Europe.

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