Famous for their smoky barbecue cooked over a straw fire, Mongtan has generated an infamously long queue in a quiet alley near Samgakji Station since 2019. Always expect to wait at least a couple of hours, unless you’re one of the lucky few who managed to score an online reservation (available only on weekdays). Their smoky pork belly is excellent, but everyone comes for the signature udae galbi (long beef rib): The staff marinates a 250-gram whole rib and then sears it in the kitchen over a straw fire to infuse its distinctive aroma and flavor. Then it hits sizzling-hot metal pot lids at the table before the staff cuts it into bite-sized pieces. The whole process is as Instagrammable as it is delicious. Complete your meal with naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles) or onion fried rice.

There aren’t any gimmicks at Nam-Yeongdon, but customers wait patiently for hours to sample an ensemble of prime-quality pork grilled over charcoal and paired with flights of house-made banchan. The space has been serving pork and noodles since 1982, but it experienced a boom in popularity after owner Jung Jaebum rebranded his late father’s business in 2017. Must-orders include their highly prized hangjungsal (pork jowl) and gabrisal (pork cheek), though you should also make room for jjolmyeon, chewy wheat noodles with tangy, spicy sauce that create perfect harmony paired with the fatty pork cuts. The wait always stretches into hours, proving the basics, done right, still command a crowd.

Once considered passe, naengsam (frozen pork belly) is staging a bit of a comeback, and many would credit Jamsugyo-jip. Shortly after opening its first location at Bogwang-dong, Jamsugyo-jip quickly expanded to nearly a dozen outposts throughout Seoul — though whichever branch you hit, you can’t escape the line. The charm of Jamsugyo-jip is in the side dishes, served on retro-style serveware. On top of the complimentary banchan, there are also lots of choices for supplements like minari and fresh oysters. Finish with instant fried rice, which servers stir-fry with leftover meat and side dishes in front of your eyes.

Naengsam (frozen pork belly) gets a bad rap for low quality, but that’s not always the case if you know where to go. Nari is a classic example, serving nothing but frozen pork belly for over 30 years in Itaewon. Good-quality fresh pork is frozen and sliced thinly right before serving to maximize its flavors and ensure fast, even cooking, creating a different mouthfeel and taste than fresh pork. Contrasting the old, worn-out appearance of the restaurant, the crowd is always a mix of hipsters and Itaewon clubbers, with a few celebrities thrown in.

What is the best breed of a pig when it comes to barbecue? The answer is YBD, according to Geumdwaeji Sikdang, the most popular barbecue restaurant in Seoul for pork. A cross between Yorkshire, Berkshire, and duroc pigs, YBD is juicy and rich, with a chewy texture and less-greasy mouthfeel than some other breeds, making it optimal for grilling. At Geumdwaeji Sikdang, the pork is aged to enhance the umami before the staff grill it on cast iron over briquettes. Their signature cut is bon sapgyeop, pork belly on the ribs, which yields unforgettable flavor when paired with anchovy dipping sauce (simple Maldon salt or ssamjang will also do the trick). Another specialty, the sweet and chewy grilled pork rind, is equally worthy of praise.

Located in front of Sinsa Station, Ggupdang specializes in pork shoulder aged for 15 days. The meat, quickly grilled on binchotan by professional staff, is tender and every bite bursts with juice. Don’t skimp on their famous rice cooked in dashi, which you can punch up with wasabi for maximum flavor.

Gopchang, or cattle intestines, is a popular barbecue item in Korea, but recently one purveyor, Ujeong Yanggopchang, has blown up among fans. The space is modern and comfortable to go along with the concise menu. If you’re not familiar with gopchang, start with the modeum hanpan, an assorted platter with four different cuts of intestine, each prepared separately according to its characteristics and served on one sizzling plate. Accompany the meal with a side of fried rice and doenjang soup. 

It’s not uncommon to see generations of regulars dining together at Budnamujip, which has been serving customers since 1977. The restaurant skips the usual soy sauce in marinating their beef ribs, producing a unique tender texture and savory flavor with just sea salt and the kiss of a charcoal grill. At lunchtime, people flock early to get one of only a hundred bowls of galbitang (beef rib soup) packed with a copious amount of hanwoo.

R Gogi has set a new standard for Korean barbecue with their thick cuts of 1++ grade hanwoo, pristine setting, and professional service. Well-trained staff grill juicy tenderloin, sirloin, and other specialized cuts directly on the charcoal fire at the table, ensuring the high-quality meat gets the proper treatment. In keeping with the splurge vibes, you can add caviar to the table, and — unusual for a barbecue restaurant — there’s also a bar program for cocktails and whiskey alongside the feast. Do not skip the siksa after dinner; R Gogi’s beefy off-menu rendition of omurice is a cult favorite.

Gombawi has maintained a strong reputation as one of the most popular yangdaechang (beef tripe and large intestine) restaurants in Korea since 1983, nailing the unique flavor and chewy texture you can only get from fresh yangdaechang and gopchang (intestines) prepared right. Gombawi also serves various cuts of excellent hanwoo, such as sirloin, ribs, and brisket, accompanied by banchan. Hongtang, a spicy red soup full of beef ribs and gopchang, is a hearty addition to the table, especially good on a chilly night or after a few rounds of drinking.

Best known for marinated galbi, Byeokje Galbi has been a quintessential, high-end Korean barbecue house since 1986. For years, they have sourced the highest-quality hanwoo beef from daily auctions, with the price tag to match. For the top-grade meat, which they label seol-hwa (“snow flower,” a reference to the marbling), the signature diamond-cut galbi starts at 60,000 won ($47) per 100 grams, ranging up to 100,000 won ($80) per 100 grams for their “ultimate” striploin steak. In addition to meat, the restaurant employs masters of naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles) and gomtang (beef bone soup, milky white from a long simmer) with decades of experience.