The Dozen - Variations on a Vine
The Dozen Vol. 26 No. 11 Wine

The Dozen – Variations on a Vine

Bouchaine offers the opportunity for wine lovers to enjoy three individual clones of Pinot Noir alongside an estate blend - all at reasonable prices.

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Pinot Noir is well-known for its clonal variations – a winemaking friend who follows these things says there are about 100 different ones available in the U.S. – and California winemakers in particular, love to talk about their Pinot clones the way old folks in retirement communities flash photos of grandchildren.

Bouchaine winemaker Chris Kajani recently had a virtual tasting of three of her Pinot clones bottled separately – and commercially available that way – along with an estate blend. We have notes on these and several other California beauties of various hues and prices.

2019 Joseph Carr “Josh Reserve” North Coast Chardonnay ($17).  Lush apple flavors with vanilla and butterscotch – a touch sweet but balanced well enough to be enjoyable at the table, especially with plump poultry.

2020 Simon Family “Golden Ore” Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc ($75). Simultaneously exhibiting lots of golden apple flavors and warm oak notes alongside zesty, lean green fruits and lime in the finish.

NV La Crema Russian River Valley Brut Rosé ($41). Good, creamy mousse, crisp, light cherry flavors, and lots of metallic minerality.

NV Marietta Cellars “OVR” California Red Wine – Lot 73 ($16). A little raspy and chalky with slightly muddled red berry flavors and dusty tannins.

2020 Joseph Carr “Josh Reserve” North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon ($19). In spite of their ubiquity, the Josh reds are usually great bargains, and this one is a fine Cab, a little aggressive in a good sense, with ripe but tart fruit, pleasant wood flavors, and moderate tannins.

2020 Joseph Carr “Josh Reserve” Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon ($19). Well made with a blend of ripe cherry/berry flavors, including cranberries, dried herbs, and well-integrated tannins.

2019 Bouchaine Napa Valley Pinot Noir ($40). A blend of Pinot clones within the winery’s large Carneros vineyard, the wine has the signature cherry flavors, though a little light on fragrance, with some nice balancing savory notes that make it a good food wine.

2019 Bouchaine Napa Valley “Dijon Clone” Napa Valley Pinot Noir ($65). Its differences as a clonal offering are more spiciness, lean structure, and noticeable tannins.

2019 Bouchaine “Pommard Clone” Napa Valley Pinot Noir ($65). The most generous of the three – fragrant and smooth, with a juiciness that is almost fruity sweet.

2019 Bouchaine “Swan Clone” Napa Valley Pinot Noir ($65). The most Burgundy-like of the three clonal bottlings, very lean, crisp, and elegant.

2019 Beaulieu Vineyard “Rutherford Reserve” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($85). It begins with smooth but plump red fruits, then finishes lean and savory with some notes of meaty bacon – quite delightful.

2019 Simon Family Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($125). Tight and tangy out of the bottle with lots of earth, and cocoa notes melding in with purple fruitiness reflecting its lovely hue. A long finish makes it a wine to savor.

Prices listed are generally SRP or from wine-searcher.com. As more wineries are shipping direct-to-consumer, check the winery website if you can’t find a bottle in your retail store.

Roger Morris writes about wine, food and travel for The World of Fine Wine, Drinks Business, Meininger's Wine Business International, Wine Enthusiast and other publications in the U.S. and Europe.

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